Ocean
Oil
on paper mounted on panel, 9 x 12, 2015.
I’ve been studying the sea for
years and I think I’m finally having some success in depicting it. I never like just doing direct painting. I like the old aesthetic of the HRS and
Ruskin that transparent water should be painted with transparent paint (although
I think both parties ended up compromising that standard by settling instead for
the depiction of reflections as the suggestion of transparency). In my works I like to unite realism to some
technique fitting for the depiction of the object in question. Well, this one’s a secret technique I’m not
willing to share, but I will tell you this is all alla prima (except the brown
band was added later), and I believe Church had a similar technique for painting
moving water. It gave me all the
transparency and brushwork I wanted.
This painting was the first I did
with the priming I settled upon for oil sketches: acrylic molding paste. Before this I tried a number of other primings
for making paper suitable to receive oil.
I discerned from a number of clues that HRS sketches were primed with
lead white oil paint (the big question every student of the HRS is asking is if
they or the colormen sealed their paper first – they probably did if the oil
didn’t rot the paper – and what they used for that nobody seems to know). Today lead white is too expensive and you
need to seal the paper first, and I wanted something that could be done in one
coat. The qualities of an oil priming I
needed were an unabsorbent (or mostly unabsorbent) surface, smoothness (lots of
effects in Church’s sketches can be explained by the smoothness of the ground),
and receptivity to pencil drawing. So I
tried animal glue primings, which did work a little in smoothness and pencil
receptivity, but were too absorbent and badly warped the paper even if it was a
thick paperboard. An oil paint priming
over that worked well, but that was too much work and the paper was still
warped. Various formulations of acrylic
gesso were tried, and they also sealed the paper with a smooth surface
receptive to pencil, but were always too absorbent unless they received an
additional oil paint coat. A priming of
one of those cheap, low-quality craft (“plaid”) acrylics you get at Walmart was
so absorbent that a thick coat of pure oil was literally sucked into it before
my eyes so no oil could be seen or felt on the surface five minutes after
application! Then I was pretty happy
with a mix of acrylic gloss and matte mediums.
The matte I found too absorbent on its own (it was usable with an
oil-out but not without one), and the gloss could not be drawn on at all and
overlying oil paint had delamination issues.
Mixed together, you had something good for smoothness and lack of
absorbency, though pencil drawing was difficult. When I tried the molding paste, it turned out
to be perfect for my purposes. It is
mostly unabsorbent as it is made with marble dust instead of chalk like acrylic
gesso or matte medium. It easily takes
drawing, is smooth, unabsorbent enough, is flexible, and easy to apply with one
thick coat being sufficient. I think
it’s a perfect, easy substitute for an oil priming on paper.
So why do I even use the
paper? It’s lightweight and easier to
store (easier to bring more along at an outing) than a canvas panel. The biggest advantage is the smoothness you don’t
get otherwise. With that said, canvas panels
also work, though they’re usually too absorbent and rough textured to make me
happy.
So, for anyone looking for a good,
HRS-style, oil sketching ground, know that they historically used an oil paint
priming, and today’s acrylic molding pastes (acrylic binder + marble dust) are
a good substitute.
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